Skincare products from Baby Durian, Anyone? — A Breakthrough of CU Innovation Hub that Redefines Beauty and Food with Plant-Based Science

Durian has found a new purpose beyond its strong aroma and distinct flavor. Researchers at Chulalongkorn University have successfully transformed this pungent yet beloved fruit into a groundbreaking ingredient for premium skincare products, leveraging cutting-edge green technology and sustainable practices.

“Durian has unique properties, when utilized at an unripe stage, make it a goldmine for skincare applications,” said Professor Dr. Supaart Sirikantaramas, Department of Biochemistry, Faculty of Science, Chulalongkorn University. “Thailand is a major exporter of durians. Yet each year we see plenty of baby durians discarded and wasted. So we’ve tried to come up with the way to transform this waste into high-value products and render additional income for farmers.”

In recent years, “Baby durian” has become a budding star in plant biochemistry research and innovation by InnophytoTech (IPT), one of spin-off companies that Chulalongkorn University’s Innovation Hub has been fostering.  

“Our company focuses on plant-based biochemistry, utilizing bioactive compounds and phytochemicals derived from plants to create innovative extracts for cosmetics and food products. We repurpose agricultural waste and enhance food and cosmetic products so as to create circular economy,” Prof. Supaart, one of IPT’s founders, explained the company’s mission and commitment to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), particularly Goal 12: Responsible Consumption and Production.

Baby Durian: A Goldmine for Beauty

According to Prof. Supaart, baby durian contains bioactive substances such as pectin and procyanidins, which boast moisturizing and antioxidant properties. These compounds combat the accumulation of reactive oxygen species, a major contributor to skin aging. “The extract is odorless, addressing the concerns of those who love durian but dislike its strong smell,” Prof. Supaart assured.

Given its bioactive properties, baby durian makes outstanding skincare applications which include:

• Dry Skin: The extract’s moisturizing properties replenish and hydrate the skin.
• Anti-Aging: Strong antioxidants slow down visible signs of aging.

Prof. Supaart added that further research on baby durian is underway to explore its potential for addressing acne and other skin conditions.

Scientific Breakthrough Rooted in Sustainability

Committed to SDG’s goal of “Responsible Consumption and Production”, the baby durian project targets to reduce agricultural waste while providing farmers with additional source of income from overlooked and discarded “waste”. Prof. Supaart revealed that over 100,000 tons of durians are annually discarded due to size or appearance imperfections, including baby durians. “During cultivation, farmers typically remove surplus baby durians, which are often discarded as agricultural waste.”, he added.

Seeing the untapped potential, Prof. Supaart said InnophytoTech has devised advanced extraction methods to produce bioactive compounds specifically designed for cosmetic purposes, including moisturizing and anti-aging benefits.

“Our process not only recycles agricultural waste but also reduces greenhouse gas emissions caused by mishandling waste management such as burning and dumping,” Prof. Supaart pointed, adding that the project is a joint effort with local farmers, leveraging the concept of zero-waste in fruit orchards towards natural healthy ingredient and sustainable product development.

Healthy and Eco-Friendly Products for Consumers

Developing durian-based skincare was not without hurdles. Ensuring the raw material was free from pesticides and harmful chemicals, researchers from InnophytoTech apply to quality control measures.

“We have to make sure that raw materials are thoroughly rinsed to eliminate any soil or chemical contaminants. In addition, all samples are submitted for pesticide residue testing to ensure they remain free from any pesticide contamination,” said Prof. Supaart.

Additionally, Prof.Supaart said researchers adopted green extraction technology, a process that uses enzymes, and eliminates the usage of harmful solvents or chemicals and high temperatures for the extraction process.

Baby Durian Extracts for Cosmetic Market

InnophytoTech takes its pride on their expertise in biochemistry and scientific innovations. Therefore, the company focuses on creating and supplying plant-based extracts as active ingredients to brands and manufacturers, rather than producing finished products.

“Cosmetics industry is highly competitive. Our goal is not to compete in the finished product market but to supply sustainable, high-quality ingredients for brands, ” Professor Dr. Supaart explained.

The extracts undergo rigorous formulation processes, resulting in prototypes that have already won innovation awards. These bioactives, approved by the FDA, can be incorporated into finished cosmetic products by brands, offering tailored solutions like hydration, anti-aging, or antioxidant properties.

The durian extract is ready for commercial sale, with ongoing clinical trials to further validate its efficacy. Currently, Professor Dr. Supaart seeks collaboration with brand owners interested in incorporating the bioactive extract into their product lines.

“I hope this durian-based innovation will inspire more research into utilizing agricultural byproducts from various fruit orchards, paving the way for a more sustainable future,” Professor Dr. Supaart said.

Redefining Waste to Beauty Innovation

Prof. Supaart concluded 7 points that make baby durian extracts standing out in the market. They are:

1. Unmatched Extract Quality

The durian-based skincare product centers around a dual extract derived from the fruit, boasting significantly higher levels of bioactive compounds and antioxidant properties compared to other fruit extracts. Unlike conventional fruit extracts, which often include harmful solvents or unnecessary additives, this durian extract ensures a pure and potent composition. The research team ensures precise bioactive content in every batch, ensuring consistency and efficacy.

2. Green Technology and Sustainability

Sustainability is at the heart of this innovation. By adopting green extraction methods, the project minimizes waste and aligns with Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). The team sources “mini durians,” typically discarded by farmers, and transforms them into valuable skincare ingredients. This project not only reduces agricultural waste but also provides farmers with a new revenue stream by purchasing these overlooked fruits.

3. Challenges and Market Adaptation

While durian has its loyal fans, its strong aroma divides opinions, presenting a marketing challenge. To address this, the team offers two approaches: promoting the unique bioactive properties of durian extract or emphasizing its benefits without focusing on the fruit itself. This flexibility allows the product to cater to diverse consumer preferences and markets, including China, a major potential market for durian-based innovations.

4. Innovative Potential in the Cosmetic Industry

Durian extract is now listed in the international catalog of raw materials approved for cosmetic use. This recognition paves the way for its integration into high-quality skincare products targeting health-conscious consumers who value anti-aging, healthy skin, and sustainable practices.

6. Beyond Skincare: Expanding Applications

The project’s scope extends beyond cosmetics. Using advanced technology, the team is exploring additional applications, such as durian ice cream, juice, and even dietary supplements rich in multivitamins. This aligns with the zero-waste concept, utilizing every part of the durian, including its rind, seeds, and flowers, to create innovative and eco-friendly products.

7. Economic and Environmental Benefits

The initiative showcases how agricultural residues can drive economic growth and environmental conservation. By incorporating durian and other fruits like pomelo and banana into their innovation pipeline, the team demonstrates the vast potential of agricultural waste. These innovations not only reduce waste but also offer healthier, low-sugar product alternatives.

Commitment to Sustainable Future

Apart from cosmetics, Chula’s spin-off company – InnophytoTech leverage the same plant-based science to address challenges in food products. One of innovative highlights is reducing sugar in fruits. Using enzymatic technology to convert sucrose in fruits into fructo-oligosaccharide (FOS), a prebiotic that promotes gut health while reducing sugar content by 65%. 

This breakthrough led to the creation of mango-based smoothies, frozen desserts, and symbiotic yogurt products (combining prebiotics and probiotics). The technology can be applied to other fruits like bananas and pomelos, transforming sweet treats into healthier options, Prof. Supaart said. 

Although InnophytoTech’s products are not widely available in markets, prototypes are showcased at exhibitions, fairs, and academic events. Plans are underway to expand their reach through collaborations with distributors and small-scale retail setups, ensuring their innovative products reach broader consumers. 

InnophytoTech’s journey exemplifies how scientific research and entrepreneurial spirit can converge to create impactful solutions, benefiting industries and promoting sustainability.

For inquiries about collaborations or product information, contact Professor Dr. Supaart Sirikantaramas at 662-218-5425 or email Supaart.S@chula.ac.th.

Alternatively, visit Chulalongkorn University’s Innovation Hub: https://cuinnovationhub.com/ or InnophytoTech: Bioactive InnoPhytoTech: Leading Bioactive Innovation for Health & Wellness: https://www.innophytotech.com/ or call (+66)-9-8919-6263.

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